Lake Arenal
Costa Rica's largest lake sits directly below the volcano, and most visitors to La Fortuna never get on it. That is a mistake — it is the best half-day on the quiet side of Arenal.
What it actually is
Lake Arenal is man-made. A dam went in during the 1970s, flooding a valley and two villages, and creating a body of water around 85 square kilometres — the largest in the country. It still generates a meaningful share of Costa Rica's electricity, which is part of why the country runs so heavily on renewables.
It also sits at elevation, which matters more than it sounds: the water is cooler than anything on the coast, the air moves, and the mosquitoes are far less of a problem than in the lowlands.
Are there crocodiles in it?
This is the question people actually search for, so here is the straight answer: no, not in the way people fear. Costa Rica's crocodiles live in warm lowland rivers — the Tarcoles is the famous one, where people stop on the bridge to look down at them. Lake Arenal is a cool, high reservoir and is not that habitat.
Kayaking, paddleboarding, fishing and swimming all happen on it daily. Use ordinary judgement about weather and wind rather than worrying about what is under you.
What to do on the water
- Kayaking and paddleboarding. The classic version: paddle out far enough that the volcano fills the horizon behind you. Go in the morning before the wind.
- Windsurfing and kitesurfing. The western end funnels wind and draws people from around the world, particularly December through April.
- Fishing. The lake holds rainbow bass — guapote — and guided trips are easy to arrange.
- The north shore drive. No boat needed. The road that runs along the top of the lake is the best stretch of scenery in the region.
A five-minute walk from our front door
This is the part that is hard to appreciate from a map. Most people who come to see Lake Arenal drive to it, look at it, and drive away. The Majestic Lodge is within a five-minute walk of the lake — out of the door, down the road, and you are at the water.
The lodge has kayaks and paddle boards that guests are welcome to use, and the caretakers will carry them down to the water for you. There is nothing to hire and nothing to book: take one out for an hour before breakfast, or late in the afternoon when the light goes gold and the wind drops. That is the difference between seeing Lake Arenal and actually spending time on it.
The wind is the reason it is famous
Lake Arenal is one of the better wind spots in the world, and windsurfers and kitesurfers plan trips around it. From roughly December through April, easterly trade winds funnel down the lake and blow hard and consistently, particularly at the western end near Tilarán.
That has two consequences worth knowing. If you came to sail, aim for the dry season and the far end of the lake. And if you came to paddle a kayak flat water, mornings are calmer than afternoons all year — the wind builds through the day.
When to go out
Mornings. Wind builds through the afternoon here in almost every season, and in the windy months it builds hard. If you want flat water and a clear reflection of the volcano, be on the lake early. If you want wind sports, the afternoon is exactly what you came for.
Getting to the rest of the lake
The nearest shore is the five-minute walk described above, and for swimming, a kayak or a paddle board that is all you need. The Majestic Lodge sits above the southern shore on the western side of the volcano — the quieter side, and the one with the views back across the water.
The lake is long, though, and the rest of it is a drive. The windsurfing end near Tilarán is well over an hour west along the shore road, and the boat ramps and tour operators are spread along the way. From La Fortuna town everything on this side is a longer drive around than it is from here.
For a group, we can arrange the boards, the boats and the driving as part of your stay. See what that includes →
Eating beside it
El Castillo sits above the southern shore, and a handful of places on this side look straight down the water at the volcano. It is a short walk from the lodge to the nearest of them — one reason guests who arrive planning to drive into town every evening usually stop after the first night.
The lake also supplies the tilapia you will see on most menus around here, farmed in pens at the eastern end. If you order it in El Castillo it did not travel far. Where to eat around La Fortuna →