The La Fortuna Guide

The Butterfly Conservatory, El Castillo

Five minutes from the lodge, up the same road, is the largest butterfly exhibition in Costa Rica. It is also the place where most guests see their first blue morpho close enough to notice that the blue is not actually a colour.

A blue morpho with its wings open. The blue is structural, not pigment — which is why it flashes on and off in flight.
A blue morpho with its wings open. The blue is structural, not pigment — which is why it flashes on and off in flight.

What it is

The Butterfly Conservatory sits about 800 metres up the main cement road in El Castillo, on Route 936, just outside Arenal Volcano National Park. It describes itself as a nature regeneration project rather than a butterfly house, and it holds both the largest butterfly exhibition in Costa Rica and the largest collection of tropical insects from the Arenal region.

It is open 10am to 4pm, seven days a week, every day of the year. Alongside the butterfly atriums there are frogs, plants and gardens, and a guided Metamorphosis Tour that walks the life cycle from egg to adult. Allow about an hour and a half.

The blue morpho, and why it looks impossible

The species everyone comes for is the blue morpho — Morpho helenor, still widely called Morpho peleides. It is common in the Arenal lowlands and it is the signature resident here.

That blue is not a pigment. The wing scales carry microscopic ridges that interfere with light and reflect a narrow band of blue back at you, which is why the colour is so intense and why it switches on and off as the wings beat. Crush the scale and the blue disappears; there is nothing blue in it.

Turn the same butterfly over and it is brown with a row of eyespots. A resting morpho with its wings folded is a dead leaf. The flashing you see crossing a forest clearing is the animal alternating between brilliant and invisible with every wingbeat, which makes it genuinely hard for a bird to track.

A blue morpho butterfly resting on leaves at the Butterfly Conservatory in El Castillo, Costa Rica
A blue morpho butterfly resting on a visitor's hand at the Butterfly Conservatory near La Fortuna

They will land on you, and they are drawn to sweat and to fermenting fruit rather than to flowers — adult morphos feed on rotting fruit and tree sap, not nectar. Do not grab. A wing is a single layer of scales and handling strips them.

The swallowtails

The other butterfly most people photograph here is a big black-and-yellow swallowtail with a broad yellow band across both wings.

A thoas or giant swallowtail. The two species are famously difficult to separate without a close look at the wing undersides.
A thoas or giant swallowtail. The two species are famously difficult to separate without a close look at the wing undersides.

This is either the thoas swallowtail (Papilio thoas) or the very similar giant swallowtail (Papilio cresphontes). The two are notoriously hard to separate in the field and they overlap in Costa Rica; Papilio thoas is the more commonly encountered here. Either way it is one of the largest butterflies you will see, with a wingspan that can pass 12 cm.

What else flies here

Costa Rica has roughly 1,500 butterfly species and around 12,000 moths, in a country about the size of West Virginia. Beyond the morphos and swallowtails, three more are worth knowing by name because you will probably meet them:

A glasswing butterfly (Greta oto) with transparent wings on a leaf at the Butterfly Conservatory, El Castillo, Costa Rica
A glasswing resting on a leaf — you can read the leaf's veins through the wing. The transparency is the absence of scales, not thin colour.

When to go

Butterflies need warmth and light to fly. Late morning on a bright day is the best window, which fits the 10am opening. On a grey afternoon in the green season many of them will be sitting still under leaves — still findable, much less spectacular.

This is also the attraction that rescues a wet day. The atriums are enclosed, so rain that would cancel a volcano hike or an ATV morning barely matters here.

Getting there from the lodge

Driving route from The Majestic Lodge to the Butterfly Conservatory in El Castillo — 5 minutes, 1.8 km
The lodge to the Butterfly Conservatory — the closest attraction to us of any in the area. Tap the map for live directions.

Five minutes and 1.8 km from The Majestic Lodge, up the same road through El Castillo — the nearest attraction to us on the whole guide, and one of the quiet advantages of staying this side of the volcano rather than in La Fortuna town.

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